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Expedition Drenched
10 July 2022
The Expedition Drenched crews have seen some spectacular things but this takes the (pan)cake. We dived a totally VERTICAL shipwreck – 1 of 2 in the whole world!
The Expedition Drenched crew has been lucky enough to see and experience some incredible things over the years. From meeting people from incredible lands, to diving some incredible shipwrecks, to having amazing encounters with some magical marine life – we have been so lucky to be able to live our passion for the oceans in such a life-changing way.
In our huge library of experiences, some still stand out amongst the others. Our voyage to the Solomon Islands during our first season was definitely one of those experiences. A once-in-a-lifetime trip that will live in our memories, and in the sails we hoist over the Sylfia, for all voyages to come.
While we do love our treasured boat, once in a while we leave her behind and go to shore to wiggle our toes in some beautiful white sand. One of the most magical things about the Solomon Islands is the fact that there aren’t many people around. Sitting on a beach, totally alone, in the middle of a scattering of some of the most beautiful tropical islands we’ve ever seen was a highlight for our first crew.
And who doesn’t love to run and play with a friendly pig on such a lovely beach? We loved our relaxing time on that little sand bar but Peanut the pig had an absolute running around and chasing hermit crabs. She snored for days after that.
But what made this stop on our Solomon Islands voyage so truly memorable wasn’t just the time we spent together in a spectacular location, but also the shipwreck that we specifically came to locate. It’s one of only two shipwrecks in the world that have sunk in totally vertical positions.
The first wreck is the HMS Victoria which sits in roughly 120 meters of water off the coast of Tripoli in northern Lebanon. The second wreck is the one we came to see – the Taiyo tuna fishing ship that now lives under the waves in the Solomon Islands.
The Solomon Islands are in Oceania, east of Papua New Guinea and northwest of Vanuatu. It’s a sovereign nation that consists of six large islands and over 900 small ones. It was first visited by European explorers in 1568 when Spanish navigator Álvaro de Mendaña directed his ship into the tangle of tropical outcrops. But the islands have been inhabited since at least 30,000-28,800 BCE by indigenous peoples.
Even though the Solomon Islands look like they’re a remote paradise, they’re easy to access with a short(ish) 3-hour flight from Brisbane, Australia. From North America, most travellers depart from Los Angeles towards Brisbane, whereas European travellers will typically have a stopover in Thailand or Hong Kong on their way to Brisbane.
We all make mistakes. Some are minor mistakes, some teach us valuable lessons, but others are just big head-slapping mistakes. That’s what happened to the crew of the Taiyo when they ventured into the Solomon Islands and Nono lagoon.
The Taiyo was a Japanese tuna fishing vessel on its maiden fishing voyage when it picked a fight with the uncharted maze of reefs in the Nono lagoon. Many of the reefs in the area are perched on the top of towering underwater rock walls caused by the volcanic activity that built the area back in ancient history. These walls and their sharp reefs are really dangerous to ship captains that sail into the area.
The Taiyo ran into one of these reefs head-ons and beached itself on the shallow corals. After sitting there for a few days, a salvage effort was launched to free the ship and hopefully repair any damage. The ship was pulled back off the reef but it immediately started to take on water. It sunk with its stern pointed towards the deep and its bow sitting only about a meter below the surface of the turquoise water.
The ship looks like it could tip over at any moment but it’s actually resting between two parts of the reef. The Taiyo now will spend the rest of its days standing at attention on the edge of the Nono reef under the sun of the South Pacific.
Our diving experience on the Taiyo was an adventure in and of itself. We boarded our dingy boat from the Sylfia and powered ourselves over the crystal-clear water towards a nearby village. We were on our way to pick up a local friend of ours who knew exactly where the Taiyo wreak was located. For most of the trip, we were entirely distracted by the beauty of the surrounding islands, but all of a sudden our attentions shifted to something beneath the water.
The water in the Solomon Islands is so clear and the Taiyo wreck is so shallow that it can be easily seen from the surface. It’s so visible that a few of our crew members thought the dingy was going to hit the wreck. But we didn’t, we glided over it slowly like we were skating over a moment frozen in time.
Most of the time when you dive into a shipwreck, you descend through the depths to find a shipwreck at the bottom. Because of the depth, you’re usually limited with the amount of time you can spend exploring underwater history. The Taiyo’s vertical position makes this wreck dive different from conventional ones. You can explore the wreck the entire time you’re descending and ascending, even spending your safety stop time combing the sides of the wreck for alien-looking nudibranchs.
The variety of nudibranchs really sets this wreck apart in our minds too. If you don’t know, a nudibranch is a slug that lives under the water. But they’re fancy slugs. The variety of colours, patterns, shapes, and sizes in the nudibranch community is unparalleled in the natural world. These soft-bodied creatures look like they’ve come from a world where everyone has as much fun as the adventurous Expedition Drenched crew.
Without a doubt, this wreck dive will stand out in your mind for the rest of your life, as it will in ours. Shipwrecks are always a wonderful underwater adventure but the vertical orientation of the Taiyo combined with the stunning clarity of the Solomon Islands water make this dive almost a religious experience. We had an epiphany and her name is Taiyo.
The lagoons and reefs of the Solomon Islands are a beautiful sight for the eyes but can be serious dangers for ships and even smaller boats like our Sylfia. As we were coming through the reef to find our spot to shelter for the night, our depth finders reported a depth of 2.5 meters over the reef. The entire crew was sweating buckets for the half-hour it took to squeeze ourselves into the lagoon since the Sylfia’s hull is only 2.5 meters deep.
At roughly 700 sq. km., Marovo lagoon is the second-largest saltwater lagoon in the world. It also contains some of the largest coral reef systems in the entire Solomon Islands because the lagoon is protected by barrier reefs and raised limestone islands.
Nono lagoon is located on the southwest side of Vangunu Island, just one of several islands in the area that are extinct volcanoes. Like the Marovo lagoon, the Nono lagoon is also protected by its largest quantity of reefs and the surrounding islands that pepper the ocean landscape.
Season 3 of Expedition Drenched is now underway and we are off on another out-of-this-world experience with our third set of ocean-loving crew members. Stay tuned to our YouTube channel for our latest vlogs as we travel to and explore Lord Howe Island nestled in the Pacific Ocean between Australia and New Zealand. As always, it’s going to be a wild adventure!
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